Yoly’s Bistro: international/Alaskan cuisine

Yoly's Bistro: international/Alaskan cuisine
By Dorene Lorenz
Special to the Seward Phoenix LOG

Classy, contemporary, with a bit of spunk, Yoly's Bistro is as sophisticated in its menu as its local art-inspired décor.
Master wood craftsman Richard Schmidt's sculptured, humpback-whale-tail door welcomes guests under the shingled orca artistry of Paul Paquette.

The happy, ochre-washed walls smile as they bring out the warm glow of Yoly's natural wood furniture. Of course, I am bias towards the current show of original Dorene Lorenz paintings of fanciful Seward animals.

Giving traditional Alaskan themes a modern twist is nothing new to owners Yolanda and Mark Ifflander. They transformed the historic location of Seward Drug at 220 Fourth Ave. into a relaxing eatery that is very family-friendly. Their four-year-old daughter spirits around like a forest fairy, shyly flashing her new teeth as she passes by the dinner crowd.

"The menu is a natural progression from Yoly’s Market and Deli," explains the soft-spoken Yolanda. "I have been gathering recipes all my life, and have wanted to incorporate Alaskan dishes with my interest in international foods. In some ways the menu is very self-centered. I grew up on a small farm in the Philippines. We always had fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, chickens, pigs. I grew up in that environment; you can’t get any more organic than that."

The Bistro's specialty burger, Johnny Cash, sounds anything but ordinary. Melted Swiss cheese, caramelized onions, and sautéed mushrooms top two burgers laid on artisan bread, dressed with roasted garlic mayo and a side of gaufrette potatoes, for $14. The rest of the sandwiches on the menu also sport an attitude -- Greenie Meanie, Jive Turkey, Groovin' Reuben, Mama Mia, and Bada Bing!

The Wasabi Halibut, a tender Alaskan filet crusted with wasabi-peanut mixture, basted with wasabi butter and served with a sweet wasabi aioli at $20, seems a bit hot for me, so I try a more delicate Alaskan-Asian fusion, the Roasted Lemongrass Chicken for $15.

The new wait staff is exceptionally friendly and attentive, but not quite in step with the kitchen. The jasmine tea is warm instead of hot, a trend that unfortunately is followed in the arrival of the main entrée.

The aroma of the Thai spices creates a welcome ambiance. The lemongrass supports the moist flavors of the chicken breast, enhanced by the subtle sweetness of jasmine rice. A delicious, savory romano-asiago ciabatta roll provides hearty balance to this light dish. Executive chef Isidra Castro-Gregory’s presentation is flawless.

Jim Pfeinffenberger's Mat-Valley Trash-style folk music receives a warm reception, especially when "Alice’s Restaurant" is transformed into "Yoly’s Restaurant."

Reggae royalty Prince Albert plays the June 17 grand opening.

A step above most restaurants in town, Yoly's makes their own desserts, presenting them like a rare jewel. The Florentine cannoli's exquisite Chamboard toffee Chantilly lace cylinders are ribboned with rich ruby raspberry coulis for $8. The beautiful Classical Napoleon's flaky puff pastry is heavily layered with ginger Bavarian creme, vanilla whipped cream, fresh berries, and sweet fondant, rising from a bed of crème Anglaise at $9.